3D Printed Ryzen Mini ITX Gaming PC Case v2 – Fixing Thermals

Hi Guys, this is a follow up video to my 3D
Printed Ryzen Mini ITX Gaming PC video where I’m going to be printing new versions and
testing alternate hardware to deal with the thermal issues with the case design. After deciding case version one wasn’t large
enough for sufficient cooling – I printed case version two. I increased the height by around 2cm and added
a bunch more ventilation holes to the sides. My thinking was that since the cooler was
able to keep the APU cool at 65 degrees outside the case while playing Tomb Raider, all
I needed to do was add more ventilation and give the cooler a bit more room to breathe. However, the temperature still climbed to
85 degrees C fully assembled. An improvement, but not what I was hoping
for. I then made the mistake of running Prime 95
to stress the CPU cores and saw the temps quickly rise back up into the mid nineties
range. Ouch. So, OK, let’s try the same but with the top
of the case removed. Mid eighties. OK better, but still far too high for my liking. It’s at this point I realise the stock cooler
clearly isn’t good enough to cool the processor under any kind of actual load – at least without
additional air flow. So I go on the hunt for a new cooler and discover
this guy. The CoolerMaster G100M. I settled on this for a few reasons, 1) It’s
fairly low profile and will still fit in this case design 2) CoolerMaster rates it for 130W
TDP (DOUBLE the 65W rating of the 2400G I’m using here. And 3) It’s RGB so I can get rid of the LEDs
and allow the cooler to do the work lighting the logo. Unfortunately this cooler sucks. It turned out to be pretty much on par with
the stock cooler. I don’t know if CoolerMaster seriously over-rated
this thing or if it was a mounting issue. I reseated it several times and each time
I removed it, I could see it wasn’t making good contact with the APU. And I was very careful while tightening this
thing down, trying to keep it level. Oh well. At this point I’m thinking: OK, Let’s get
a Cooler that is going to actually work (…while still keeping the RGB if possible). I settled on this guy. It’s the Wraith Prism cooler that ships with
AMD’s current consumer flagship the 2700X. I figure if it’s capable of cooling *THAT*
it should be fine with my 2400G with only half the cores – plus it’s still not *too*
big either. Fortunately, it *was* very capable. It maxed out at around 66 Degrees in Prime
95 (open air) and kept The APU under 40 Degrees in Tomb Raider. Unfortunately, it’s now too tall to fit in
case version 2. At this point I’m thinking OK, If I have to
print another one of these things, I’m going to make sure the APU has the best possible
chance of staying reasonably cool. So I printed this Monster. It’s now 15cm high, 50% taller than version
2 and almost twice the height of the original. There should be decent enough space for the
Cooler to breathe and a whole bunch of extra ventilation to keep the air moving through
the case. So, with baited breath I re-run the tests. And finally temps are under control. I made one last change – making an adapter
for the back so I could use the original Case Top panel since it has the Logo insert I spent
a bunch of time sanding and polishing glued onto it. Details of that can be seen in the previous
video. So that’s it, despite the case being a bit
fatter, I’m pretty happy with the result and I really like the subtle pulsing light effect
the new cooler gives the logo. Although, I’m now thinking with the extra
2ish cm of room on the 3D printer’s print bed, I could probably make a slightly wider
version of the case that would fit a small 1050 ti or something – it’s certainly tall
enough now. The Pico PSU is only 160W though, so it would
be incredibly tight on power since it’s already drawing a max of around 110W from the wall
and PCI-e slots are designed to allow a draw of up to 50W. It would also mean more heat. Someone talk me out of it please. Anyway that’s it for now, cheers for watching. If you’re interested in more videos like this
please let me know by either commenting or liking and sub to make sure you see them! Thanks, catch you in the next one.

12 thoughts on “3D Printed Ryzen Mini ITX Gaming PC Case v2 – Fixing Thermals

  1. Good job, now just use some filler, sand it and make it nice and glossy :).
    Have you tried removing fan and comparing it to standard 92mm fan? This one looks kinda thicker.

  2. I like the look, and I am still looking for a viable option for a decent cooled mini pc to print. I have a idea for one thats not so mini but it is unique. I'll share with you when its done. Nice Video

  3. Not to sure if it was an oversight but the case itself can still remain small if you opted for Noctua low profile coolers or Cryorig low profile coolers. You even ended up with the AMD Wraith Prism Cooler which is roughly around $60-$70 USD. You could have went with Noctua's low profile coolers like the NH L9 series and they are even cheaper than the wraith prism cooler and get a better performance with possibly no need to extend the case height.

  4. I've been thinking a lot about 3D printed ITX cases lately, although I don't have a 3D printer myself. Anyway, one option would be to actually flip the concept upside down. Make the motherboard mount onto the top plate, have the bottom panel be removable with just the right case height (+ small stands for an air gap) so there's an opening with perfect fit for the cooler to suck fresh air in. Like cbutters' Ryzen ITX box here on Youtube, but upside down. You'd have to get a separate LED strip for the top if you wanted the lighting, but at least you could get a nice RGB effect under the case from the cooler itself.

  5. The problem is recirculating the hot air, you need a forced exaust, or intanke in the case, no need for a different cooler, and different sized case. Even an small 80mm fan could do the job.

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