How to Build Your Own PC: Installing Motherboard, CPU, Cooler, Graphics, RAM and SSD in 2019 ⚙️

Hello everybody! We continue the series of videos on building
a new PC, and if you didn’t see the first part, just follow the link in the description. In today’s second part I’ll show you how
to assemble a computer with the parts we have chosen in the first episode. There are several stages in assembling a PC. The first thing to do is to get the case ready,
that is, remove all side panels to provide access to every part and lay all wires the
way you like. In fact, it doesn’t matter that we are building
the computer in this particular case and with these particular parts. Essentially, all builds are more or less similar;
the only thing to be really different is how the CPU cooler is mounted and several other
minor aspects, but all the other things are very much the same. Getting ready to assemble a computer
When the case is ready, unbox the motherboard, unpack the processor, and then install the
processor into the motherboard. It’s not that difficult at all – just find
out how to place it into the socket. If you are trying to assemble a computer for
the first time, never try to push or force the processor into the socket if it doesn’t
fit – it never helps, but you can bend the pins or end up with a damaged processor. There is no need for any physical pressure
– if you insert it the right way, it will slide into the socket easily. So what’s the proper way of installing it? On the processor, there is a triangular mark
in the corner, and a similar mark on the socket of your motherboard. Place the processor the way as to make sure
the marks coincide. It will fit into its place easily and you
can assure yourselves by having a closer look. Now lock this retention lever. That’s all, the CPU has been put into place
– nothing too difficult. The next step is application of the thermal
paste. After the processor is installed, it needs
some thermal paste on top. In my case, the stock cooler comes with thermal
paste on it, so I skip the paste operation and just install the cooler. Thermal paste should be applied in a thin
layer along the perimeter of the processor or the heatsink (the lower part of the cooler
system). All coolers always come with an installation
manual, so read it carefully before you start, and consider it done. Depending on the cooler type, you may see
a different kind of mounting; as we’re dealing with the stock cooler, let’s remove this
part as it is intended for mounting tower-type coolers. Then, mount the stock cooler from the box. These for bolts should be tightened as far
as they would go. At first start the screws, and then screw
them till the end one by one. When the cooler is mounted, connect it to
the motherboard. The plug at the end of the cable coming from
the fan should be inserted into the connector marked as CPU_FAN. The actual location of the connector depends
on the particular motherboard model, but the marking is always the same. Installing system memory
Our next step is to install the system memory. It’s not difficult at all – just release
the retention clips. Bear in mind, that system memory modules should
be inserted only in a certain position. If the module won’t fit into the slot, just
try turning the module the other side. Inserting the modules should not require any
physical pressure – if you keep on forcing the module into the slot where it doesn’t
want to fit, you may end up hearing the sound of memory module cracking. Usually motherboards with more than two memory
slots have them made in different colors. If you want two memory modules to work in
dual-channel mode, make sure you insert them into slots of the same color, but if you only
have one module, the slot color doesn’t matter at all. The motherboard may also have special marking
and numbers for slots. Insert the module by slightly pressing on
it until you hear a click – first on one side, and then on the other. That’s all, your memory is now in place,
and it must be one of the easiest steps in building a computer. Before we move on to the next stage, make
sure you know the location of all necessary connectors. First of all, find the connector marked as
SYS_FAN. You will need it to connect the case fan. The fan on the computer case should be powered
from this particular connector. Installing the motherboard into the case. The next step is to put the motherboard inside
the case. First of all, make sure the cables are untangled
and out of your way as you get inside. We’ll pay more attention to cable management
later by hiding them behind the side panel so that they don’t hang about inside the
case and don’t hinder the proper air circulation. Look inside the motherboard box to find the
I/O shield. Insert it in the rear of your case according
to the position of the motherboard. Do it from the inside of the case and push
slightly until it clicks into place. Then have a look at how your motherboard fits
into the case to find out where you should prepare additional mounting points. Usually these things (also called standoff
screws) come with the computer case. Add some more if necessary. Now check the motherboard again to make sure
it coincides with the standoff screws. Now fix it to the case with the screws that
come shipped with the case. Connecting the PSU to the motherboard. At this stage, it’s time to connect the
motherboard to the power supply unit. This thick cable delivers power to the motherboard,
so plug it in. This 8-pin cable powers the processor, so
connect it to the plug with the corresponding marking. Leave the graphics card power connector for
now – we will put it into its proper place as soon as the card is installed. Connecting the motherboard to the case
Now we are ready to connect the motherboard to the front panel of the case. At this stage you may have some difficulties
if you’re building a computer for the first time, especially when you need to connect
the front panel cables. Don’t worry – all plugs and all motherboard
connectors come with the corresponding markings. It’s very easy – put the AUDIO plug into
the AUDIO connector – just pay attention to the location of the connectors and remember
that if you are trying to put something in the wrong place, it won’t fit in. After that, insert the USB plug into USB1
or USB2 connector, and it doesn’t matter which one you chose. Now it’s time to connect the Power and RESET
buttons, as well as LED indicators. Read the motherboard manual to find out their
exact location. HD LED, Reset, Power and Power LED indicator. Electric polarity is usually marked on the
motherboard and the plugs. If there is no marking at all, then the general
principle of motherboard design is that the positive contact should be on the left, and
the negative on the right. The white wire is the negative one, and the
green wire (or the wire of any other color) is the positive one. If your front panel has a USB 3.0 port, this
is the wire you should plug into this motherboard connector marked as USB 3.0. Installing the hard disk
The next stage is to install and connect the SSD. Just find a good place for the drive inside
the case and fix it there. In our case, it can be put here onto this
side panel. Fix the drive with screws, connect the power
cable from the PSU, and use the SATA cable to connect the SSD to the motherboard. Installing the graphics card
The next and almost the last step is installing the graphics card. It is quite easy – take it out of the box
and unpack. Estimate how it would fit into the case and
remove a shield or two from the rear of the case to make way for the card’s connectors. Then just insert the card into the PCI Express
slot and use a screw or two to secure the graphic card’s metal retention bracket to
the case so that is fixed into place firmly and can’t get damaged. Finally, it is now that you connect the additional
power cable that was hanging about the case all this time. At this moment, you’re almost finished with
the assembly operations, except for cable management and closing the case. Lay the wires and cables neatly, tie them
if necessary to make sure they are not hanging all about inside the computer case. Close the side panels. That’s all, we’ve got everything together,
and now let’s start the computer and run some tests. First of all, we should test the build for
stability and temperature. When idle, the temperature inside the case
remained under 35 C. The CPU fan worked at 1200 RPM. The graphics card fans worked in a passive
mode at 1400 RPM. AIDA stress test brought the CPU temperature
to 45-50 C at the frequency of 3.4 GHz, with the CPU fan rotating at 1800 RPM. The graphics card was idle, so nothing changed. The build is stable and no much hotter than
in idle conditions. Now let’s test our build in 3DMark. At first we will launch the stress test which
is intended to check computers after assembly. As you can see, our computer passed the test
easily. As a result, the frame rate stability made
97,8%. You can see all the other data on the screen. Now let’s check out other tests. We move on to Sky Diver – a test for gaming
and mid-range PCs. Our build scored 29,243 points in this test. 41 216 points for graphics, 12 940 for physical
effects and 22 692 points for combined performance. Here are the detailed results. In the graphics test we achieved the average
192 frames per second. In physics with 8 threads, the frame rate
hovered about 217, and it dropped to 43 in 96 threads. During the test, the processor reached the
temperature of 49 C, and the graphics warmed up to 68-69 C. The maximum GPU load was 96%. The CPU frequency varied from 3.4 to 3.7 GHz. The graphics memory frequency was 2000 Mhz. Looking at the online ratings, it’s not
bad at all – our build scored better than 90% of all results. In the Fire Strike test for high-performance
gaming builds, our computer scored 10 978 points. You can check out detailed monitoring for
yourselves. From 50 to 58 FPS in the graphics test. 49 FPS in the physical test.
and 21 FPS in the combined test. Looking at the online ratings again, it’s
a good result – our build scored better than 67% of all results. Finally, let’s test the build in games,
with the first one being Assassin Creed Origins. in FullHD resolution. With very high settings, the game works at
40 FPS, the graphics card loaded for 75-80%, and the
central processor for 70%. The CPU temperature was always under 46 C,
and the graphics card worked at 70-72 C. In some episodes, we enjoyed 60 FPS or even
more. The next game for the test is NFS Payback. With ultra-high settings, we had about 80
FPS almost everywhere, and sometimes even over 100 FPS. While playing, the graphics was loaded 99%
and the temperature was 72 C. The CPU load was 50 to 55%, with the temperature
of 52 C. As you can see, it is quite a good build we
have. That is all for now. I hope you liked this video. Hit the Like button and subscribe to our channel. Leave comments to ask questions. Thank you for watching. Good luck.

2 thoughts on “How to Build Your Own PC: Installing Motherboard, CPU, Cooler, Graphics, RAM and SSD in 2019 ⚙️

  1. We continue the series of videos on building a new PC, and if you didn’t see the first part, just follow the link in the description. Did you like the video? Click Like button and subscribe to Hetman Software channel. We will be glad to answer any questions in comments.

  2. Nice vid but where is the cable management part? I'm very curious about it especially how it looks on your new build.

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