Alright so, one of the lights on my razor has gone out. Let me focus the
camera here.. Now, the lighting in here isn’t as good as it could be.. But you’ll notice all these keys are generally fine, but this one has gone out. I’ve previously tried to fix it; I
thought it was a week solder joint, but it was actually
a dead LED. I recently ordered some replacement
LED’s and I’m going to install a new one. While I’m doing that I am
going to change a couple other LED’s to white; mainly the WASD and possibly the arrow keys, and 8, 4 2, and 6. So give it a little bit of color. So the first
thing I’m going to do is unplug it because I’m going to be leaving my computer on and while I take apart the keyboard, I am
going to let my soldering iron heat up. Now this keyboard is generally kind of a pain in the ass to take apart.
I’ve already taken it apart once, but I’m going to try and walk you guys through it as best as I can The first thing you’re going to want is a flat-head screwdriver. Well actually the first thing you’re going to want is a phillips-head screwdriver; and that is for all the screws that are
underneath the pads. Now you have multiple pads, you have this one, this one, this one, this one, this one; and there’s also two screws underneath these little
plastic tabs. So I’m going to take out these tabs. There’s that one.. and there is, that one. Now, to takeoff all of the sticky- Don’t worry about these, they
stick right back on. Go ahead and give them a little tug, but try and keep the stickiness in the same shape; try not to distort it too much. As you can see, I’ve already done that a little with this one it’s kind of.. Well, the colors off.
This one actually does not have a screw, you’re welcome to keep this one on. This is simply for grip. The other ones though, you are going to want to do. So now that I have all those off, you are going to want to unscrew all.. the screws. Now, one thing to keep in mind is this keyboard is glued. This is the Razer BlackWidow Ultimate, I believe it is the first one that has the
blue lights instead of green. So, I had to pry at mine a little and because of that parts of the casing snapped underneath. It’s entirely not noticeable. It’s mainly snapped
here, here, and then same place as over here, here. So if you don’t mind doing that you’re welcome to snap your keyboard but but those points a little higher those points actually are
where the plastic holders or whatever they’re called, are that
are keeping the in. So now that we have all the screws off we’re going to switch to the flat-head,
or you can use some sort of shimmy: a plastic guitar pick, whatever you have handy
that’s thin and relatively hard, because you are going to have to pry and you are going to have to apply force. Now I am just, working my way in That’s where that broke before. Let’s not do that again. Let’s do the corner first, the corner’s easy. Now, this was easier the first time around. Alright so now that that’s done,
I’m gonna work my way around prying it up, so the first one is this one- Now the point here is.. You just heard that, I’m sure. That noise was me getting that out-
that’s how much force it took. I’ll show you over here if you see this crack that’s right there that is right above where that lock is so right there is unfortunately where that lock is.
Now this side, I didn’t have to do last time I did not have to pry at it last time
because I had already done everything else and because of these slots here you want to pull it out. So you actually don’t need to
this one you going to be working on all the other
ones in order to get that out now come to the second one, again, a little force is needed now with that; with those two out I’m mostly
able to just apply a little force to it in a certain direction and that will pop it out. Now you’re going to want to
be careful when you’re doing this part because inside you have an LED right here and that shines where you
have the Razer logo. so if you care at all about the logo, which is in entirely your choice, then you’re going to want to be careful here.
And with that I have taken off the top and I’m going to just set this aside. Now at the top off, we have the inside of our keyboard. Mostly. Now you’re going to want to switch back to the phillips-head screwdriver. You have multiple screws; you have one
here, here, here, here, here, here, and here, and one there as well. So… yeah. Actually, before I pop those out I am going to pop out a few keys that I’m going to be replacing the LED’s for.
Because I’ll need to be able to get to the LED’s, and you’ll see why in a second. I have two wires I’ve put
together here as a key prier if you actually have a key prier, use that,
if not, you can buy them on Amazon for just couple bucks or you
can do it I did and make a little prier; a business card works
well, a credit card.. even a X-ACTO knife, just make sure not actually harm the key.
So, my question mark key is the LED on that is dead. I am also going to be replacing several other keys,
but I’m going to be doing those later because once you see the
first LED the rest of them are the same process. So I’m probably gonna be including one of
them in this video. So, let’s get to unscrewing the rest of this. now the good thing about this keyboard
is all of the screws are the same size, so you don’t need to
worry about storing certain ones in certain places
so that you can keep track of them just so long as you can keep track of all of them and remember where they went last time I put everything back together
I used all the screws which I’m sure if you’ve done this sort of thing before that can happen you always have
something left over it no matter what you putting back together, there’s always something left over; and it-
it always works fine after that. So yeah, just.. yeah it’s up to you. personally I want to keep my stuff as I found it I’m just repairing this. Mainly. Well, I mean, here I am changing it up a little make it a little more dynamic- I forgot, there’s also two screws here that
you’re going to want to take care of, this is just so it- it’s just for the power cord USB cord, whatever. Take that part off.. and now if I am not mistaken I should be
able to lift this up, if it does indeed come up pop this as well this is holding this LED in, try
not to bend that like I just did you want that to stay as straight as you can. Now this is what I was
mentioning earlier you’re gonna want to pry these out.. Not pry, I’m sorry that’s the wrong word. Wiggle. You’re going to want to wiggle these out, and these would be the side ports. Now as you lift it there’s going
to be this guy, you’re gonna just pop that out and there you go. and there is my leftover screw. I am, like I did before, going to set this to the side and now I am going to flip this guy over-
now you want to keep track of where this is,
the key you world working on so I know it is third up. Err, third to the left and up. Or you can just keep track of it by sight, either one
works fine just keep track of it so for me, that is going to be right here. Now like I said, I previously tried to fix this as you can
see via that wire.. it didn’t work I actually burned the pad off because my
soldering iron runs hot; it is a Radio Shack brand which is actually a Hakko, if I remember
correctly so it definitely runs a little hot just, keep that in mind working on it if you
end up getting one of these there are relatively cheap so if you
want to I would recommend it, but just keep that in mind. So I’m going to
re-position the camera and you guys will be able to see what I’m
doing down here all right, now as you can see I have
zoomed the camera in. You should be able to see that
joint a lot clearer now. The first thing we are going to want to do is tin our iron so just add a little tin to it just a tad this is actually relatively oxidized already, so blame that on the heat of this iron,
like I just mentioned. So there we go. Now I am going to be using solder wick to remove this joint now I have a little solder on the iron
already to kind of speed up the process, just a tad. so if you’ve ever done this before you know what’s going on there and I should be able to move that now need to see a just tore that away, that doesn’t matter because this is already broken and I am simply replacing the LED so going to make sure that this is movable.. not quite. Now I don’t know if you noticed that, but it looks like the pad is unfortunately starting to loosen. Now, you probably won’t be able to see
this very well but I’m going to remove this LED now or attempt to at least. Well, I don’t know where I left you at.. it looks like my camera cut out so So, I am just refocusing it there and move that. Now, I’m going to backtrack a
little I’ll cut-out what I re-say, I did this wrong. if you can see this the pad is now missing there’s only one spoke on the LED I did not de-solder it correctly. Now something else to note these LED’s are three millimeter. You’ll also notice it doesn’t have a rim on it, so I don’t
know if the LED’s I got are even going to work with this. We’ll see. so unfortunately what this means since it turned out this way is I’m not only
going to have to do what they did here and have this connect the- well shit, I don’t know which is positive and negative anymore. I’m I going to have had this
connect to there, but I’m also going to have
another one have to connect to .. another one. its.. yeah… well, it was either this, or buy another keyboard for.. well, what do these things cost, 100 and some-odd bucks? No thank you. So now I’m going to flip this over and remove that spoke.. try to remove that spoke. That’s in perfect and now that’s in, I am just going to bend the leads so that I can solder to it. I already have a wire here that is gonna
be going over to this one. Now remember I broke mine and to fix it you can just do what I’m doing here.
Now I’m going be doing another one so basically you’re negative is on the right, your positive
is on there. So I’m going to be using black,
which I believe is universal for negative. On the left got a little box of wires here, and some wire
cutters I’m going to be using So there’s a big chunk wire.. probably a little too big. Now, the first thing is I’m gonna be connecting both of these I mean, it’s either that or I can go all the
way over there to this one- Well.. Yeah, I’ll go all the way over to that one, that one seems a little safer actually. So, this is 22 gauge wire, so just going to strip that and and and then strip some on the other end and once that’s stripped we have two nice little wire leads. Now, once this is cut, it’s actually gonna end up right there, I’ll be cutting
it again once I have this end soldered. So, actually let’s get to soldering it. Our two leads. So let me just tin my tip here apply some solder to it.. and then, just get it really nice and clean there now I have had my soldering iron sitting here this entire time so it’s already heated up so that’s good huh no I don’t know if you saw what I did..
it’s a little cheat to getting wires to connect is to apply a little and then heat it up so it really is just.. a cheat- Now we don’t want it that high so I’m going to move this down here. Ugly, ugly solder right there Ugly in uglyton that’s.. really a crappy joint, but.. it will, unfortunately, work perfectly fine for our uses, so.. You know, I do not like this joint. Why are joints such a pain in the ass? I mean, really, why can’t these things be easier? and part of it is, this is one of my first times soldering. I’m relatively new to this, so obviously there will be mistakes along
the way, as I’m sure you’ve come to see. with every single mistake I have made in this video this is full of mistakes; this is an example of mistakes. It’s terrible, absolutely terrible. so this time I’m going to just create a little loop on this wire
before I put it down that kinda bugged me last time that’s not what we want that was pretty bad so cut off the end here and I’m going to re-strip this wire here, and and do a little more because of the loop. So.. Alright, now that my loop is done there it is.. Let’s see if I can get this to lay flat. That’s.. probably as good as we’re going to get. Actually, that’s pretty good. So, let’s try and solder this again again, and again, and again Gotta love these headsets,
they’ll randomly turn off in the middle of doing thing’s.. It’s rather lovely, actually. If you can’t tell, I’m being entirely sarcastic.
Now, I got this joint on all right. So, give me a minute. Alright, this joint’s on pretty good, if I do say so myself, and I do say so myself; nobody else is saying it for me. So, first thing we’re going to do is we are going to be connecting to this far one right here.. if you can see that. So we want to make this curve, so we
avoid that one So what I am going to do is literally curve this wire like that so we have, that. Now I’m going to strip there, and I am going to cut there. So, It’ll be easier to cut with these.. So I am going to cut right there, so that that cannot meet there and I’m going to strip the these on 22 yeah there we go. alright there is our wire straighten that out just a tad and we’re going to have a little trouble there,
when we go to let’s focus on the new joint here There we go.. Alright, now going to bend this down just a little.. Still not ‘down’ enough.. A little more.. There you go, that’s probably as good as I’m gonna get. Now, again, tin the tip and this should be about the same. So, you want to feed under.. You don’t want to do that and it doesn’t look like it’s gonna move however.. That looks better. Now, that that’s done I can finally come in and trim the leads of our new LED. And, let’s see about getting that little guy there too. Haha! And.. with this, we should be set. So, to give it a test, I’m going to hook those
two wires up again that I had on. And we are going to test out this LED. Actually for this one I’m just gonna plug the
sucker in. So, our new one if you can’t tell let me re-position the camera.. Alright, if you, for some reason or another, cannot tell which one it is.. Assuming this camera lets me refocus it. It doesn’t seem to want to.. Let me put it on manual here.. There we go. Alright, dear god my keyboard is dirty.. Okay, the clear one is the new LED if you cannot tell. So, I’m going to plug that in, and it works. All the LED’s are
lighting up. Nothing is completely broken. So, unplug it. With that we can start to reassemble it. Now as you can see, once I focus here that is working again as are all the other keys. Not a single key is out now. Everything is
working as it should. and the buttons work on Windows as well so if I open up notepad plus here hopefully you can see that let this focus right there..
The main key I am worried about is this key which still works fine as to the other
ones I took out and the shift so all the keys work fine the connection is great and that is how you repair the LED on a Razor BlackWidow Ultimate Edition.
Anyways, I hope this was useful and have a good day