Mitsubishi Toshiba Samsung DLP TV Repair No Picture No HDMI NO VGA – DIY DLP Main Board Replacement

For this repair we are going to be replacing
the main board. The first thing we need to do is remove all of the screws off of the
back of the set. So you are going to find all of these screws across here and they are
going to be removed. Now that we have removed all the screws, we
are going to go ahead and remove the lamp door and it just slides right out. We can
remove the lamp before we pull it apart. It should just have one screw at the top.
Pull the lamp out. Then you are going to want to make sure that
you do this when the lamp is cool. Now we have got all of the screws out we can
pull off this metal piece. It should just slide out. in order to remove the chassis,
you are going to have to remove a few connections. There will be four connections in total. 2
on the chassis. 2 on the optical block. Once we have done that we can go ahead and
remove this screw and the chassis should slide right out.
So there you go, we have out four connections that we pulled out. Now the two sections are
completely separate. You can go ahead and undo our screw.
Now the chassis should just slide right out. Once you pull the chassis out, you are going
to find a couple of connections on the back and there is one connection on the back that
you are going to need to undo. So we have these two cables, you can squeeze
them and they should just pop right out and there you go. We have removed the chassis
from a mitsubishi DLP. So when you are removing these or when you are pulling the chassis
out, sometimes it can be a little tough. These cables right here are actually taped down
and if you need a little more room to pull it out you can gently pull on these and lift
the tape, that will give you enough room to get your hand back there and pull the chassis
out. So take these clips and squeeze them in and
they should pop out. Then you can remove the power cables. This ribbon cable, the one that
takes the video signal from the main board over to the formatter. Next you want to go
ahead and remove the connector right here, just pinch the sides and give a little wiggle
and it should pop right out. Over here slide out this connector. Again squeeze the back
and slide it right out. Now we have those removed we can take our drill and remove the
6 screws in the corners and two right here. With screws removed, slide the board right
out. There we go we have removed our main board and now we can go ahead and put in our
replacement. Slide it into place. We can go ahead and put
our screws back in. Ok now we have our screws back in now we can go ahead and redo our connections.
These will only fit in one spot they are not going to go in anywhere else. Take the first
one and slide it in until it clicks in place. Then we can take our video cable and hook
it in, just from a different angle so you can see it. Slide it right in and it will
click right in place. Next up we are going to attach the cable. This cable goes behind
every clip. If one falls out don’t worry, they just clip right back in on both ends.
Take the power put it behind the first one and once you have it in place just clip that
in, keep it in place. It goes over the second one on this TV and back behind the last one.
There we go, now its done and we can go ahead and put on the metal front cover.
So the metal front plate can be a bit of a pain, it kind of lines up and click in place
and it holds itself in. Then we can take our but on the coax connection and tighten it
down, just get it finger tight. Should be just fine like that. There we go, now we can
put this back in the TV. We are going to have 4 connections that we need to hookup from
the front of the TV, theres two cables, there is this one which carries the LEDs and the
keypresses and this one which goes to the speakers. We have got a couple of connections
here that go, this one goes over to the ballast and this one goes over to the actuator on
the back of the prism that goes up to the lens.
So on the power supply itself, this cable is going to take the actuator connection and
then on the back side of this we are going to have these connections and this power connection
will be used. On the power supply itself you have two connections that you need to hookup.
We have this one which gives power to the DMD board and we have this one which is the
video signal from the the main going to the DMD.
First off we are going to hookup our speaker connection and it just goes right into here.
Push it in until it clicks in place and then this is the keypad and LEDs and that just
slides right into place. Just so you know this can’t go into the wrong connections,
the style of plugs is different and it won’t let you put it in the wrong spot. Again just
push it in until it clicks in and locks in. If you are having problems with these cables
and you don’t have enough length to get it, these are usually just put down in back and
you can remove the tape to get a little more room, like we did here. Next we are going
to slide this around. Make sure you pull these cables out of the way. Slide the board in
place and we are going to hookup this connection right here which goes to the actuator, slide
it right in. It should just click in when it is done correctly.
We are also going to hookup our connector for our ballast power around to the power
supply. Once again it should just slide right in and click in place. The last connections
we need to make, we have power going to the DMD and it just connects in, clips in. Our
final connection is our video connection and on this one we need to make that those silver
teeth that you can see go to the left and there is a solid silver side and that should
be on the right. You might need to play around with this just to kind of get it in place
and push it up and push it until it clicks and you just push in on both sides. If you
don’t lock it in place properly, its possible that the TV will not start correctly.
We are just going to take our single screw here just to lock it in place. There you go
that stops it from pulling out. So next up we are going to reinstall our lamp, just go
ahead and slide it in place. That will kind of click in whenever it makes a connection
with the power cord. Then go ahead and take your screwdriver and just snug that screw
down to lock it in place. OK, so we have our back and the first thing we need to do is
take our power cord and just pass it through the hole over here. Just be careful, the edges
can sometimes be sharp and they can either catch you or the power cable. Neither of which
is good! Once you have that done, you want to make sure that this metal piece right here
sits on the other side of the plastic. If you don’t the back will not go on. Once you
have got it on that side, just go ahead and push it in place and you will see that these
little plastic pegs that should line up in each corner. Once that is done, you can go
ahead and start putting screws in. There we go, we have put the back on.

10 thoughts on “Mitsubishi Toshiba Samsung DLP TV Repair No Picture No HDMI NO VGA – DIY DLP Main Board Replacement

  1. Hey shopjimmy! I have a problem with my television and my question was more about how could you fix a mainboard whos HDMI ports have come off, literally they were pulled off the mainboard(faulty design). Is there any way I can solder it back on? I am rather attached to the 22055 hours I have logged with the system and other than this it has been a great television

  2. @gs8777 – I would recommend replacing the main board in your TV. I cannot recommend a specific part, since I do not have your TV model number, but I would recommend calling our customer service and they can help you to find your replacement part. You can reach customer service at this number – (877) 881-6492. Thanks and please let us know if you have any further questions!

  3. I have a Samsung DLP TV Model # HL-S4676S. The sound crackles and pops after the tv has been on for about a half hour.  I was told I may need to replace the main board, is that correct?

  4. I would like your feedback. I have a Samsung HLP5063 Series. My Hdmi does not work. It reads that it is there when it is pluged in but other than that it does not work. I really do not want to replace the digital board. Any sugestions? By way the port looks good. No dust or  loose connection from the outside. Is it possible to  fix it Without replaceing the Digital Board? Every other port works just fine too. thanks 

  5. Working on a Toshiba 42HP66. Replaced pwr supply bd. Now suspect main bd. Set turns on but no video. Also the lites on the main bd. Do not come on. Please help Jack

  6. Can someone please help me to find out what this problem is! I have a Samsung dlp tv hl-s6186w . First of all when I use to turn the tv on it would be on for a few seconds to minutes then start to flicker white with some colors in some spots (I think green) then the tv would turn off on its own with 3 lights blinking standby.temp.lamp , so I figured it was the lamp. I have recently changed the bulb and now the tv no longer comes on just the standby and temp. Upon turning the tv on the cable to the main video board literally started to catch on fire so I unplugged it. The bulb does not come on and neither does the fans. HELP!

  7. Hey guys I have a Mitsubishi LCD tv model LT-52149 that's having some issues. at first it was just some discoloration on the right side but has sense progressed to the point where the screen is either completely black completely pink or blue or a variety of different colors. sometimes it works if I hit the reset button on top but it doesn't last long. what parts should I buy to fix this issue?

  8. I have a 55 inch Mitsubishi and the Hdmi doesn't work nor i don't have apicture. How can i trouble shoot that to mk it work ? Static sound black screen

  9. I have model LT-52153 Mitsubishi Unisen 16 speaker tv, 2009 year. Four years ago the sound stopped working. Had the main circuit replaced. One year later, again, same problem. Need help. Love the picture quality on my tv. Does anyone have suggestions?

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